Preventative Deck Maintenance
Most
of us in BC live our lives outside on our decks in the summer. Now is the time
to exercise preventative maintenance so your summer will be safe and enjoyable.
If
you check and repair things right away, maintaining your deck can be relatively
simple and inexpensive to do versus facing a big problem later.
To examine
and evaluate your outdoor deck, first ask: Is it tired and worn out? Does it
need replacement or just some cleaning and TLC?
Pressure
washing decks can be the first step to restoration. If you don’t have a
pressure washer, there’s many different cleaning products available designed to
remove moss, mildew, and mould, to keep your deck clean and in good shape.
Wooden Deck Maintenance
Is
your deck made out of wood? Once the dirt and grime has been removed, it may be
time to re-coat with stain or paint, depending on your deck design. Sun is hard
on wood, causing it to break and crack. You’ll want to take extra steps to protect
it from the sun and heat, depending on where your deck is facing.
Water
and sun attack materials differently. New products are available to protect and
even refurbish the finish on your deck as well as extend its life. These protective
agents are available in a variety of colors and applications. If your deck is
worn, a couple of thick quotes can salvage a distressed looking deck and buy
you more time to plan its replacement.
Vinyl Deck Maintenance
If
you have a vinyl deck, be gentle with the power-washer. It’s better not to be
too aggressive, or it can take off your vinyl finish and remove the color from
your vinyl membrane.
While
you’re cleaning, be sure to check out the vinyl seams. Are they intact or loose
or coming apart? If so, it’s time to apply a small amount of seam sealer. You
can use heat to soften – not melt – the seams for better bonding.
Doing
a little work now prevents you from doing a lot of work later. Once a seam
goes, and water seeps through the seams and spreads beyond underneath your deck
flooring, rotting could occur, and then you’ll have a much larger problem to
deal with.
Preventative Maintenance Check
Remember,
when it comes to outdoor decks, water needs to stay out. It’s your enemy and does all the damage. You
need to stop moisture from collecting and water from seeping into joints and
cracks where it could promote rot.
It
means taking a little extra time to inspect the overall condition of your deck,
but it’s worth it in the long run. Once you find these vulnerable areas, apply
a urethane sealant to caulk where needed.
Plastic or PVC deck Maintenance
Composite
deck materials are relatively low maintenance. As long as there’s no worries
with the foundation or structure itself, like any deck, you want to pressure
wash it and provide a clean, non-slip surface.
Aluminum Decks
Aluminum
decks are also low maintenance, but check railings to see if they’re sturdy and
solid. Thoroughly check the stairs to see if they need replacement. Again, be
diligent, as though you are a home inspector. Look below the surface for those
hidden details.
Take a good look around.
Be
sure to replace boards that are rotting and posts that seem loose. Check your
wooden railing. If pieces are rotten, you want to replace those as well.
It
may also be time to rebuild those stairs. Make sure they’re safe.
It’s
important to repair things as they come up, so you won’t be spending a large
amount of time and money later. Plus, you’ve have peace of mind that your deck
is safe and well-maintained.
A
little maintenance WILL save you a lot of money – perhaps even some headaches -
in the long run. That’s what preventative maintenance is. It’s taking the time
now to prevent bigger problems from happening later.
A Little Planning Goes a Long Way
Split Level Deck |
A deck not only
adds value to your property but increases your outdoor living space for
entertaining and family relaxation. Make sure that your deck plans match your
house design and reflects your personal lifestyle.
Try to imagine
all the ways you'd like to use your deck, because most design elements will be
based on those kinds of preferences.
Important
questions to ask:
·
Do you entertain frequently?
·
What kind of seating will you need: built-in benches
or patio furniture?
·
Do you want a cozy seating area or one large common
space?
·
What lighting or heating requirements do you need?
·
How large or small of a deck do you build to
complement your home?
Plan for the Elements
Do you want to
locate your deck in shade or bask in the summer sun? If you want the best of
both worlds, you may need to add an overhead screen, a trellis or plant a large
leaved tree for summer shade.
Also consider
wind protection, noise mitigation and blocking unwanted views with the use of
plants and shrubs or design elements. If you’re planning on adding a hot tub,
plan to maximize privacy and ensure that the deck is reinforced to carry the
water’s weight.
Shaping it Up
While an angled
deck can add interest to an ordinary home, it may be a more complicated task
requiring more materials and labour. You can also consider a wrap-around deck
with seating flush to the railing, or utilize lattice, planters and an overhead
trellis to make it more visually appealing.
Deck Anatomy
Here are five
structural deck components:
·
Vertical posts, usually set in concrete
·
Horizontal beams to carry deck weight
·
Joists to distribute deck weight
·
Decking or flooring
·
Railings or balusters to retain
Carefully Select Materials
Decks must stand
up to extreme weather conditions, excessive heat and moisture and prevent
against rot. So durability is important. Pressure-treated cedar, pine or
redwood can withstand extremes while standard spruce, fir, or pine needs to be
treated to endure. Check out the many deck materials to see what best suits
your deck design.
Anatomy
of a Deck
Arbors:
A structure that
can be used for hanging plants or vines.
Awning: An overhead covering to provide shade and protection from the weather.
Balusters: The vertical members of a railing in between the posts. An overhead covering to provide shade and protection from the weather.
Bridging: Blocking used between joists to prevent them from rocking and twisting.
Decking: The boards that make up the floor of the deck. The decking or deck boards attach directly to the top of the floor joist.
Fascia: A decorative board used to cover the front and side rim joists.
Flashing: A material used to prevent water from entering the home particularly where the ledger board bolts to the house.
Footings: The concrete support foundation the deck is built upon.
Girder: A lateral support beam the floor joist rests on.
Joist: Spans of lumber that make the substructure of the floor the decking is fastened to
Joist Hangers: Metal brackets used to secure the joist ends to the ledger board.
Lattice: An open cross pattern of interweaved strips generally used for privacy screens and skirts.
Ledger Board: The board bolted to the house and joist ends get fastened to.
Deck Posts: The vertical lumber that rests on the footings to support the girders and deck.
Post base: Metal brackets to securely fasten the bottom of the post to the footings.
Post top: A decorative top that can be added to a railing post.
Rails: Rails are the top or bottom horizontal members spindles attached to.
Rise: The vertical distance of one step.
Risers: The vertical boards behind or in back of stair treads.
Skirt: Covers the deck underneath.
Spindles: The vertical members of a railing in between the posts also referred to as balusters.
Stringers: The framing for stairs the risers and treads attached to.
Tread: The step or part of stairs that is stepped on.
Trellis: An overhead wood structure constructed for a decorative look and to shade sun.
Awning: An overhead covering to provide shade and protection from the weather.
Balusters: The vertical members of a railing in between the posts. An overhead covering to provide shade and protection from the weather.
Bridging: Blocking used between joists to prevent them from rocking and twisting.
Decking: The boards that make up the floor of the deck. The decking or deck boards attach directly to the top of the floor joist.
Fascia: A decorative board used to cover the front and side rim joists.
Flashing: A material used to prevent water from entering the home particularly where the ledger board bolts to the house.
Footings: The concrete support foundation the deck is built upon.
Girder: A lateral support beam the floor joist rests on.
Joist: Spans of lumber that make the substructure of the floor the decking is fastened to
Joist Hangers: Metal brackets used to secure the joist ends to the ledger board.
Lattice: An open cross pattern of interweaved strips generally used for privacy screens and skirts.
Ledger Board: The board bolted to the house and joist ends get fastened to.
Deck Posts: The vertical lumber that rests on the footings to support the girders and deck.
Post base: Metal brackets to securely fasten the bottom of the post to the footings.
Post top: A decorative top that can be added to a railing post.
Rails: Rails are the top or bottom horizontal members spindles attached to.
Rise: The vertical distance of one step.
Risers: The vertical boards behind or in back of stair treads.
Skirt: Covers the deck underneath.
Spindles: The vertical members of a railing in between the posts also referred to as balusters.
Stringers: The framing for stairs the risers and treads attached to.
Tread: The step or part of stairs that is stepped on.
Trellis: An overhead wood structure constructed for a decorative look and to shade sun.
For more information on renovation industry
best practices, home financing or home maintenance needs, contact: http://www.homeforcebc.ca/.
TIPS FOR A SMOOTH RENOVATION
Living with Renovation…Comfortably
(Source
Canadian Homebuilder’s Association)
You’ve
probably heard stories about renovation nightmares. Here’s some helpful tips
for a smooth, successful and stress-free renovation outcome.
Once
your project gets underway, you and your renovator need to work closely
together to make sure that everything goes as efficiently as possible.
The
renovator needs a good working environment so the job can progress without
problems or delays. You want as few inconveniences and disruptions to your
daily routine as possible.
Many
of the responsibilities of both the renovator and the homeowner have already
been spelled out in the contract. Before the work starts, sit down with your
renovator and discuss everyone's expectations and responsibilities in detail.
Good communication is key to a good renovation experience and a satisfying
result.
Before the Work Begins
Renovator Requirements
Discuss
the renovator's requirements for the work including access to electricity and
water on a regular basis, delivery and storage of building materials, and
disposal of wastes.
House Rules
Determine
the rules of the house for the work crew. Clarify access to bathroom facilities
and eating areas, as well as kitchen privileges, if any, and also which parts
of the house are off limits. Set out your smoking policy and if you permit
music in the work area.
Permits
Verify
that municipal permits and approvals have been obtained as needed. The contract
may stipulate that your renovator will do this; however, the ultimate
responsibility rests with you, the homeowner.
Renovator Responsibilities
Your
professional renovator will make every effort to avoid disruptions and minimize
the impact on your household. For instance, additions will be built and
partially finished before the connecting wall is removed. Temporary hook-ups
for water and electricity will allow you to continue your daily cooking and
cleaning routines.
To
keep you informed, your renovator will name a contact person for your project,
usually the site supervisor or the renovator personally, who will stay in touch
with you throughout the project. You will get regular updates on the progress
of the work and be told when to expect trades people and when you will be
needed for decisions. This person will also be available on short notice to
respond to any questions or concerns that you have.
Meeting Deadlines
The
renovator is responsible for meeting deadlines. The contract should clearly
outline the project schedule and deadlines to which your renovator will work.
If the work gets off-track for unforeseen reasons, the renovator will discuss
the situation with you immediately and find ways to correct it.
Daily
clean-up is part of the service. Professional renovators leave a clean work
site at the end of each day. Be sure to discuss your expectations.
Homeowner Responsibilities
Personal Belongings
Clear
work areas of furniture, drapes and art. Protect your valuables by placing them
in an area where no work is going on, or out of the home, and cover anything
that might be harmed by dust.
Make early product selections.
The
contract may stipulate that you select (and/or provide) specific items such as
flooring, lighting equipment, tiles and kitchen cabinets. Have these items
available to your renovator when needed to ensure the smooth progress of the
work.
Keep changes to a minimum.
Most
renovators are willing to accommodate changes to the original plan as you go
along. However, changes may result in a cost increase or a time delay so make
sure to discuss the implications with your renovator. Change orders are
amendments to the contract and must be signed by both parties.
Be available to your renovator.
Invariably,
you will be asked to make a number of smaller decisions as the work progresses.
Make sure that your renovator can reach you on short notice.
Discuss your concerns as they arise.
Bring
any concerns and questions to your renovator's attention immediately; don't
wait for "the right moment".
Provide
payment as agreed upon in the payment schedule set up in the contract. Be sure
to hold back the appropriate amounts required by the Contractors' Lien Act in
your province; contact your provincial government or your lawyer for
information.
Accept
the unpredictable. Foul weather, unavailable products, unforeseen complications
. . . these can be part of the renovation experience and will be dealt with by your
renovator in a professional manner.
For more
information on best practices to help you plan your renovation project, visit: http://www.homeforcebc.ca/
Curb Appeal and Functionality: Your Front
Entrance Says it All
While
spring is the time to focus on backyard patios and decks, your home’s front
entrance may need a little attention, too. It’s the first impression people
have of your home and glimpse of your personal style. A porch can add function
and a classic, contemporary or vintage look to enhance your front entrance.
Front Porch Focal Points
Before
you get out the lemonade to sip on your favourite rattan rocker on your new
screened porch, here are some key structural areas to consider:
Foundation
Whether
you’re using a pier, slab or perimeter foundation, your porch’s platform needs
to safely support weight, slope and soil conditions.
Roof construction
Cutting
and fitting rafters is an integral part of roof construction and requires expert
know-how. Choose from metal, cedar shake, rubber or ceramic tile roof materials
in various architectural styles to define your home’s character.
Columns
Columnsconsist of a capital (ornate feature), tapered or non-tapered shaft, and a base,
which structurally support roof beams but can also be purely decorative.
Columns are used to define your home with more prominence and make it more
inviting.
Railings
Railings
add security, charm and curb appeal to your front entrance. Whether using
aluminum, sawn, wrought iron, lattice, or glass siding supports, calculation
and spacing of your balustrade or railing system can be tricky and is best left
to a professional.
Ceilings
An
open porch will have visible rafters or joists or will be covered by vinyl,
bead-board, tongue and groove, PVC or composite ceiling materials. Attractive
ceiling fans can add a tropical feel and provide cool breezes in summer heat.
Floor Construction
Your
porch’s footings, joists, and foundation are your porch’s structural anatomy. A
well-constructed base will allow you to use a variety of decking materials to
cosmetically protect, including wood, stone, aluminum and vinyl membranes.
Latticed or landscaped skirting will cover any exposed piers, joists or beams.
Flashing
Ledger
flashing is a critical moisture barrier, guarding against rot and deck
collapse. Consulting a professional can save valuable time, dollars and promote
peace of mind.
Light
fixture placement, control and power are an important part of your porch’s framework.
You may choose photo-cell or time activated energy-efficient lighting. For a
dramatic effect, consider placing sconces or outdoor chandeliers in functional
but strategic locations.
For information on renovation industry best
practices, home financing or home maintenance needs, contact: http://www.homeforcebc.ca/.
Today, our homes
have become more than just space. They’re a personal reflection of who we are
and how we live.
Whether it’s
practical, personal, or purely economical, your decision to renovate your property
is individual.
- Bathroom (75 - 100%)
- Kitchen (75 - 100%)
- Interior Painting (50 - 100%)
- Exterior Painting (50 - 100%)
What’s Your Reno ROI?
Prior
to renovating, a homeowner
must weigh all the elements including:
·
resale
value and return on investment, and;
·
Quality
of life for the duration of stay in your home.
Ultimately, you
want a home you can enjoy, be comfortable and entertain in while appreciating
in real estate value.
Whether you’re
thinking of a large scale remodel project, a bathroom upgrade or ongoing maintenance...it
all adds up to a greater return on your most valuable investment ~ your home.
But how do you know where to begin?
If you’re planning
to list your home, a remodelled kitchen can make an impact to its overall
appeal, especially in a buyer’s market.
Kitchens
typically receive a great deal of attention from potential buyers in any
real estate market – and more purchasing decisions are made in a kitchen than
any other room in a home!
Maintenance Check
First
Some
home owners have that dream kitchen in mind, but might forget about key
maintenance issues. The performance of your home’s systems and components are
critical and can affect your home’s value.
It’s in the Details
Thinking
of building an outdoor deck? Many people still consider a deck as a basic
rectangular structure enclosed by railings, and yet a ‘designer deck’ is much
more than a bordered platform. Integrating nuances of architectural elements
can be both functional and beautiful at the same time, if done correctly.
Varied Railings
The standard
railing design with evenly-spaced vertical balusters on horizontal rails now
integrates more complex design elements. A quality renovator should be able to
incorporate lean-out railings, stair intersections and curved or bowed railings
in a unified concept.
Seamless Staircases
Historically,
deck stairs have been boxy and obtrusive. A more stylish and easy-to-manage
stair will have ‘kick’ or expose the tread by cantilevering it out beyond the
riser. This treatment can be extended outward so there is a seamless view
between the steps and borders.
When
stairs are extended to sloped configurations and stair railings, not all
patterns will carry over, so a planter box may be incorporated to manage the
discontinued pattern. Today’s built-in ‘vertical slat’ planter boxes may
feature a cantilevered cap with mitred corners with a trimmed horizontal base
for a more polished look.
Stylish Seats
When
designing your deck, you’re looking for a picture perfect view. A professional builder
will move the posts inside the edge far enough so that the outside edge of the
seat is flush with the fascia. Seats can be contoured conform to the changing
direction of deck borders, rather than butcher-block fashion. A lean-out
railing, for example, can incorporate a seat back rest while framing your
designer deck.
Lattice and Screens
You’ve
all seen the pre-fabricated latticed screens from your home supply store, often
made from low-grade product that might otherwise be salvaged. When trying to
create deck symmetry, you’ll want to mesh the lattice strips at the corners for
continuity and ensure that the panels are cut to the appropriate size and
properly framed in. The screen should accent the space, not become a flawed
focal point.
For information on renovation industry best
practices, home financing or home maintenance needs, contact: http://www.homeforcebc.ca/.
Upgrading Your Home’s Heating and Cooling Systems
At this time of year, it’s hard to know where
to turn the fireplace pilot light off or being plan for those warmer days ahead
with an upgraded home cooling or air conditioned system.
Today, heating and cooling technologies have
become more sustainable and sophisticated with innovations in radiant heat, forced
air and portable air conditioning systems.
Conserve Energy. Save Money.
Source : hvac-leads.com |
That’s why it pays to review your home’s heating,
ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) performance. Renovations are a good
time to review mechanical systems to increase their efficiency and longevity
and to reduce operating costs.
Forced Air Systems: Are they running as efficiently as possible?
If you have a forced air system, you have a heating
or cooling plant which re-circulates house air. The basic components are a fan,
a burner or other heat source, a heat exchanger, supply ducts, grilles or
diffusers, a return air path and controls.
The common optional components are a cooling
coil, air filtration, humidification, an outside air supply and zone controls
to allow heating or cooling of individual parts of the house. Examining these
components now with a qualified professional can not only help to extend your
mechanical system’s lifespan but also ensure that you have warranty protection.
How Your Cooling Plant Stays Cool and Safe
Virtually all residential cooling plants are
electric motor-driven refrigeration units. The major component, incorporating a
compressor, condenser and cooling fan, is generally located outdoors in a
weatherproof cabinet. A refrigerant, circulated by the compressor, extracts
heat from house air through a coil mounted in the airstream and discharges it
outdoors through the outside condensing coil. Because cooling of air also
reduces its capacity to hold moisture, a cooling unit will also dehumidify
indoor air. This moisture will accumulate as condensate on the expansion coils
in the fan coil and must be collected and drained away. Checking for trapped
moisture in cooling equipment can prevent serious health risks since it acts as
a growth medium for bacteria and fungi.
Heat Exchangers
Heat pumps are primarily designed for heating
homes but may also function as cooling plants when their operation is reversed.
Heat is extracted from outdoor air or groundwater and discharged into the house
air through a coil. Heat pumps can also be designed to have their cycles
reverse automatically for summer cooling.
Air compact air conditioners on their way out?
Window air conditioners are noisy and
problematic, but are sometimes the only available means of providing comfort in
existing homes in the hottest and most humid season.
They are also useful for allergic persons
during pollen season because they allow cooling without introducing large
amounts of pollen-laden outdoor air. They also can provide some basic air
filtration.
How do I install one?
A typical unit fits into a window opening or
is placed in a dedicated opening in an outside wall. It contains a small
compressor and fan with two heat exchange coils. The evaporator surface tends
to become quite wet when operating because warm room air loses moisture as it
condenses on the cool surface. This
moisture is collected in a drip pan and carried outside by a small tube which
must be kept clean.
Some units have controls to select the amount
of outdoor air mixed with re-circulated air and basic filters. In some cases,
filters can be upgraded to a medium-efficiency type which will remove some
pollen, dusts and soot from outdoors. The manufacturer should be consulted
about filter options.
The main concern with these units, aside from
the noise, is the difficulty in keeping them clean and preventing the growth of
microbes in the condensate pan and drainage system. When dust collects on the
evaporator and pan, it may clog up the drain tube creating conditions which
will grow fungus or bacteria. Some microbes will produce disagreeable odours
and stains while others are a health hazard. If window air conditioners are
necessary, it is important that they are cleaned and the condensate collection
system sterilized regularly.
What about a split-system?
A split-system air conditioner is a
wall-mounted unit containing only the evaporator, a fan and filters. The noisy
compressor is mounted separately outdoors. These units often have better fans
and filters than window air conditioners.
Portable air conditioners mounted in cabinets
on wheels are also available which use a water-cooling feature to boost
efficiency. One model contains a compressor and evaporator, and has a water-cooled
condenser fed from a small water tank. It requires a 10 cm (4 in.) diameter
hole in the wall to connect an exhaust duct. These units can also have good
quality fans and medium efficiency air filters.
Central Heat Pump/Air Conditioner
An outside unit with compressor and coil
exchanges heat with outdoor air or groundwater. The inside unit is a fan coil.
It may require an electric heating coil for the coldest weather. Peak demand
could also be met with an oil-fired water heater, with due consideration to
avoidance of oil swells and products of combustion.
(Source CMHC)
For information on renovation industry best
practices, home financing or home maintenance needs, contact: http://www.homeforcebc.ca/
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Blog Archive
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2012
(20)
- May(3)
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April(15)
- Deck Maintenance - [MM]
- A Little Planning Goes a Long Way
- Tips for a Smooth Renovation
- Your Entrance Says It All - [ TT ]
- Your renovation's Potential Payback - [ FF ]
- Deck Design: Architectural Elements
- Keep Your Home Cool
- The Air Conditioner - [ TT ]
- Save Energy. Save Costs. - [MM]
- Bathroom Trends - Win a Bathroom Remodel!
- Reinvent Your Own Backyard
- 5 Outdoor Deck Trends
- The First Meeting - [ TT ]
- Spring is Here - [ MM ]
- Expand Your Living Space to the Outdoors
- February(1)
- January(1)
- 2011 (1)
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